World Clock

Wednesday 16 April 2008

the Capital of the Capital

This first point of interest that stands out when you exit from Kyoto station's central exit is the impressive and enormous 15-storey open-plan station itself, built of glass and steel in 1997 and conflicting with the general theme of this ancient capital, and then immediately in front of you, the similarly modern Kyoto tower which is illuminated at night and makes for a great lighthouse in times of disorientation.
For the first new day in this new city, considering the long day had previously, we took a relatively relaxed approach and wandered slowly around the grid-style streets of central Kyoto, visiting the two large temples in the area, Higashi ('east') Hongan-ji and Nishi ('west') Hongan-ji. Both of these monumental temples, appearing oddly out of place amongst the modern city, were built as headquarters for the Jodo Shin-shu (True Pure Land) school of Buddhism which had significant prominence and power at the time. Nishi Hongan-ji (originally Hongan-ji) was founded in 1591 as the new Jodo Shin-shu headquarters, however the warlord Tokugawa Ieyasu felt threatened by the school's heightening power and so decided to weaken it by creating a breakaway faction as opposition for which he built Higashi Hongan-ji in 1602.
Each temple is made up of a number of individually impressive buildings; a main hall (Goe-do) connected with gardens, art halls and even no (classical Japanese dance-drama) stages.
On our way back to the hostel in the afternoon, we happened across as quaint cafe called Kitten Company, selling only tea and Chai - no coffee - and many fair-trade and local goods. As Lee mentions in her blog, it was a really neat place and something I think she should definitely take some ideas from whenever she decides to open her cafe. Perusing the selection of purchasables, I couldn't help but part with $23 for a cute little locally-made fold out book about a banana who is sad because her spaceman boyfriend cannot take her to the moon as she is too big to fit into his spaceship... Aww :(
Kevin, whom Lee met in Ghana and now lives just outside of Osaka, arrived by train the next day in the early afternoon. He was here for a mammoth hanami party on the Sunday.. More about that a little later on.
The morning before Kevin arrived was spent walking around the pristine Shosei-en garden, also central within the city. The cherry blossoms were in full bloom and the obvious attraction for the Japanese-only crowd there. The wooden bridge across the carp-filled pond is also a nice touch.
We met Kevin at the station and walked him to his hostel of choice, about 40 minutes away past the castle Nijo-jo with its lovely gardens. We got to see part of a traditional wedding cermony here which was interesting, especially the attire of the bride and groom.
Kevin took us out for a great okonomiyaki dinner and another extravagant icecream dish, and in-between courses we meandered around the downtown district. We found a few small, out-of-the-way, yet lively alleyways where we got to have our first (brief) glimpse of a Geisha in action. She was leading her gentleman companion into a restaurant. Doesn't sound very exciting, I know, but it certainly was great spotting Geisha (geiko in the Kyoto dialect) as there are estimated to be only around 100 in Kyoto plus about 80 maiko (apprentice geiko). It's a very peculiar subculture...

Photos:
1. Kyoto station
2. Higashi Hongan-ji
3. the Goe-do of Higashi Hongan-ji
4. Amongst the city
5. Enjoying the serenity - Shosei-en
6. fountain in Nishi Hongan-ji
7. feeding the pigeons
8. Lee and Kevo in Nijo-jo
9. Sakura
10. The wedding
11. Geiko